I don't surf. I always wanted to, but I can't stand cold water.
I do, however, love to watch surfers. Wally and I drove past a surf spot on the way home from school. I don't think he's seen people surfing before. He seemed very amused and maybe impressed.
On of my nicest memories of watching surfers was when I drove out to San Luis Obispo for a few days. I drove out to the coast and parked at an elementary school that was right on the beach. It was foggy and cool, but I stayed to listen to the waves. I sat down and just stared into the fog. It was grey and uniform and set everything in slow motion. Then, very queitly, a trio of surers just emerged from the fog and walked past me, boards under their arms. They didn't say anything to each other. They seemed spent. It was like observing another species.
Of course they were physically beautiful...
